High in the Peruvian Andes, clinging to the slopes at an altitude of 16,000 feet, lies La Rinconada, a mining settlement often described as the world's highest city. This remote location, far removed from the conveniences and safeguards of modern society, presents a stark portrait of human resilience and desperation in the relentless pursuit of gold.

Home to approximately 50,000 people, La Rinconada exists solely for the extraction of gold from the surrounding mountains. The harsh conditions and dangerous practices prevalent in the mines and the town itself contribute to an alarmingly low life expectancy, estimated to be just 30 to 35 years.

The air is thin, the temperatures are frigid, and the landscape is littered with garbage and waste. Potable water sources are scarce and contaminated by mercury, a highly toxic substance used to separate gold from the ore. This constant exposure to toxins, coupled with the physically demanding labor, takes a devastating toll on the residents' health.

La Rinconada has earned the grim moniker of "Devil's Paradise," a testament to the suffering endured by its inhabitants. Lung diseases and severe respiratory infections are rampant, fueled by the dust and pollution from the mining operations. Mercury poisoning leads to neurological damage, manifesting as memory loss, physical deformities, and paralysis, ultimately leading to premature death.

Adding to the already bleak picture, reports suggest that the gold deposits in the area are dwindling, intensifying the struggle for survival. This scarcity has fueled crime and violence, transforming the settlement into a lawless environment where disputes are often settled with deadly force.

The desperation for gold has created a volatile environment. Miners have reportedly been murdered in the tunnels, while young women are trafficked into brothels, a tragic consequence of the economic hardship and lack of opportunities. Physical altercations are commonplace, further contributing to the atmosphere of lawlessness.

Attempts by law enforcement or government officials to regulate mining activities or maintain order are often met with resistance. Miners, armed with dynamite used in blasting the tunnels, pose a significant threat, effectively deterring outside intervention.

Even women are sometimes forced to participate in protests, highlighting the pervasive power dynamics and the limited agency of individuals within the community. The dwindling gold supply exacerbates social problems, leading to increased alcohol consumption among the men.

Eva Chura, a woman who extracts gold from the rubble, observed that as gold becomes harder to find, the men spend more time drinking in bars than working. This cycle of despair further undermines the community's well-being.

The process of extracting gold from the rocks involves the use of mercury, a neurotoxin that poses a grave environmental threat. Both men and women use it, rinsing the ore with water melted from glaciers. This contaminated water then flows down the mountain, polluting vital water sources.

According to Federico Chavarry, an environmental crimes prosecutor for the region, the water used in mining is indiscriminately dumped, contaminating the water supply for downstream farming communities. This polluted water carries heavy metals, posing a direct threat to Lake Titicaca, a critical resource for the region.

Lake Titicaca, the largest lake in South America, serves as a vital source of drinking water and fish for the surrounding population. The uncontrolled discharge of mercury and other pollutants from La Rinconada threatens the lake's ecosystem and the health of the communities that depend on it.

Adding to the environmental burden, runoff from nearby cities and untreated sewage contribute to the overall pollution of Lake Titicaca. In 2012, the Global Nature Fund, a German non-profit organization, designated Lake Titicaca as the world's most threatened lake of the year, underscoring the severity of the ecological crisis.

Despite the horrific conditions, individuals like Eva Chura are drawn to La Rinconada in search of a better life. Twelve years ago, Eva left her hometown of Chupa in the Puno region and migrated to La Rinconada, hoping to provide for her family.

Eva lives in a corrugated zinc home with five of her eight children. Her eldest daughter, Natalie, is thirteen, and she continues to breastfeed her youngest child, a boy named Alizon, whom she takes with her while scavenging for gold.

The journey to the site where the women work takes Eva an hour. Upon arrival, they perform a ritual for good fortune, chewing coca leaves, lighting cigarettes "for the saints," and drinking a small amount of anise.

"Sometimes there's gold, other times no. At the moment it's very low," Eva explains, highlighting the precarious nature of their livelihood.

The men of La Rinconada forbid women from entering the mines dug beneath the rock, believing that the female spirit of the mine, located beneath the La Bella Durmiente (Sleeping Beauty) glacier, would become jealous and angry if women attempted to steal her riches. This superstition reinforces the gender inequality prevalent in the community.

Instead, the women work on the surface, scrambling onto piles of black scree dumped by the men. High above the ground, they meticulously examine the rocks, searching for even the smallest glimmer of gold.

Any promising pieces are collected and taken back to be processed and sold to black-market dealers who operate along La Rinconada's main street. This illicit trade fuels the local economy, but also contributes to the lack of regulation and the prevalence of exploitation.

Eva estimates that she can sometimes find one or two grams of gold in a week. At London market prices, this would fetch between $50 (£38) and $100 (£75). "If I'm lucky, it can sometimes be 20 grams, but that's down to luck," she says, highlighting the extreme variability of their income.

While the quantities collected by each woman are small, the sheer number of "gold pickers" in Peru, estimated to be over 15,000, underscores the scale of the informal mining sector. The women, like Eva, work tirelessly to scratch out a living in the harsh environment.

In La Rinconada, there is no garbage collection. The residents, both men and women, risk their lives and endure squalor in the thin, frigid air of the mountains. Despite the hardship, Eva insists that she is better off gold-picking than other alternatives.

"It is very sad to live with garbage and dirt, washing in the cold, with water from the mountain. But you tell yourself to get over it. The children give you strength and courage to work," Eva concludes, revealing the resilience and determination that allows the people of La Rinconada to survive in the face of seemingly insurmountable challenges.